ILLAMPU – 6368m – All Transport Tour Operator

Author: codiferous (Cody H) photo taken in spring of 2007

A great mountain among the largest in the Cordillera Real, this climbing should only be tried by those who are in good physical condition and with a reasonable amount of mountaineering experience.

Ancient legends tell that Illimani and Illampu were monarchs gods who ruled the places surrounding them and that illampu one day declared war on Illimani for wanting more lands. Illampu is considered by the indigenous communities of Bolivia as the most important of the mountain gods.

It is the northernmost peak of the Cordillera Real and, according to indigenous folklore, is known as the king of the mountains, reigning over the others along with its mount Illimani, the southernmost mountain of the mountain range.

CLIMBING ILLAMPU

Dificult: ─ Duration: days nights

Day 1: La Paz to Sorata

La Paz (3600m) – Sorata (2700m), Our first day is the drive to Sorata. As we head out of La Paz into the city of Al alto with have great views of La Paz city and the surrounding mountains. Later we cross the Altiplano were we pass most of the Cordillera Real, it’s rugged peaks breaking the horizon. After 2 hours we reach a pass which takes us down into the valley of Sorata. Along the way we stop for photos of Illampu, one of the most impressive peaks in the Cordillera Real. Once in Sorata we notice the warmer cliate due to the lower altitude, and take advantage by relaxing in the plaza with a cool beer. 3 – 4 hours driving (LD) Hostel.

Day 2 - Base camp of Illampu, Hotsprings

Sorata (2700m) – Lachathiya (4200m) – Base camp of Illampu, Aguas caliente (4200m), Today we head to the base camp. First we drive up the new road to Lachathiya where we meet the mules to carry our gear up to base camp. We climb up the valley to cross over the pass of Huilakota (4886m), and then descend down the other side to reach the base camp of Illampu. We still won’t be able to see the mountain as it is hidden behind other peaks. 1 hour driving, 3 – 4 hours walking (BLD) camping

Day 3 - Base camp - High Camp

Day 4 - Summit & Return to Base Camp

High camp – Summit (6368m) – High camp – Base camp, This is a very long day and we will need to leave very early in the morning. There will be a 2 hour walk up to the base of the wall, from where we will start to pitch up the wall, climbing on ice up to 60° for 400m. We then have a further 300m on the ridge until the summit. After a short rest we head back down the same way. 12 – 17 hours (BLD) camping.